The Irish Escapade   October 2004

Safely arrived from the port of Belfast, we proceeded immediately to Armagh to find our accommodation for the next few nights. When your heads are buzzing with possible family connections, as our would-be-genealogist heads were, a comfortable resting place is essential. This we found in Fairylands Country House offBallycrummy Road, just a mile out of the City of Armagh. Maureen, welcomed us with a cup of tea, showed us to our exceptionally comfortable rooms and left us to consider our options.

  In less than half an hour, we were off again in search of information about my Grannie Goonie, as I had always called her. Once, when she had come to stay with us, she was emptying her big bag only to discover that she’d forgotten to pack her nightie or goonie. “Grannie’s forgotten her goonie!” she exclaimed. As a very young and not so eloquent speaker of a year and a bit, I picked up on two of the words and she was christened GRANNIE GOONIE by me as I toddled around helping her to re-search her bag.

  Research-the key word for our visit here over the next few days; research to be undertaken in graveyards, public buildings, record offices and local places. Our first port of call was the Trian Centre in Armagh where we found an excellent exhibition depicting the story of this country and its capital. This city with its two excellent cathedrals was and still is the spiritual capital of all Ireland. This is St. Patrick’s city, the place where he lived and breathed and brought the foundations of a Christian faith that is evident still, though open to interpretation by all denominations. It has been a troubled city over centuries; built, destroyed and rebuilt many times as invaders came and went. It is now a modern city, owning the usual range of shopping and commercial venues; jam-packed with traffic in narrow streets; positioned on a hilltop with rolling valleys carpeted with new-build reaching further and further into the countryside beyond.

  Before venturing out of the city, we partook of an early evening meal in a restaurant where the dearest item on the menu was £4.50. Fed and watered, we sought the road to Markethill, the place of my grandmother, Rachel Spence’s registered birth. From her birth certificate, the only record in our possession, we knew that she had been born in a farm in the Townland of Drumatee, Parish of Mullabrack.

  Road signs in Ireland are often misleading by their absence. We couldn’t at first find Drumatee, but did discover Markethill, complete with union flags and county flags flying along its main street. Our research was beginning.

Drumatee Road presumably leading to Drumatee....or was it?

 

An Irish Escapade....day one continued.  

 

Summary of day one of the Irish Adventure....After Landing 

        Headed through the streets of Belfast, noting that the slogans and flags were not so much in evidence as they were on our last visit four years ago. Peace at last.Found our way to Armagh and our B&B off Ballycrummy Roadwith relative ease, the relative in the back singing as we went. Unpacked, barely, and showing little effect from our 5a.m. departure, we set off on our hunt thirsty for information. Learned a lot about the area at a local exhibition.Had an early tea in a restaurant where the dearest thing on the menu was 4 pounds fifty. (SMILES FROM JOAN)

Tried to find Drumatee, found Markethill instead......ALL flags flying here!!!

       FOUND SPENCES AND IRWINS!!!

Photographed the evidence....tried not to be sucked into further exploration.

Headed home and collapsed.

Early to bed....little sleep.....head too full.....but eventually got off.

End of day one!!

         Mountains of Mourne from Drumatee

 

An Irish Escapade.....Day Two  

 

There is nothing like Irish hospitality.....

We had an ENORMOUS breakfast, beautifully presented by our hostess Maureen. After a busy day we were also presented with a delicious supper. I hope we can walk when we get home!!!!

   Our second full day saw us drive to Eniskillen, where the scenery was not unlike that of Loch Lomond. We proceeded through to Balleek and saw the beautiful fine china in its many forms. Naturally a sample or two has found its way into our boot!

   Venturing further, we were in and out of the N and S of Ireland like yoyos. Road edges change colour, sign-posts become bilingual, and flying flags too, show their own allegiance. We did find the same style of sign-post though....misleading or non-existent!!

   Managing to avoid most of the showers, we found our way back to Armagh, and Markethill. I was fortunate enough to find the chairman of the local enterprise group, purchase a CD rom containing everything local and make contacts for future reference. By the time I got back, my fellow travellers were ravenous, so the local pub served very well to sate us.

   Enough will be available for mum and me to spend a day in Markethill researching while Joan ventures to Ballymena to meet her friend Anne.

   Today, we'll return to the graveyard at Drumatee, and then head out for an exploration of points closer to Armagh. Our time will soon be spent....but already we are planning a return trip in the spring.

   Markethill 

 

An Irish Escapade.....Day Three  

 

Day three of our Irish Experience saw us up, breakfasted (not quite so heartily as before) and on our way by 10 to the location that was becoming so very familiar to us. We were off to Mullabrack to the graveyard of St.Johns Church of Ireland, to double-check that we'd written down all salient facts about our ancestors now deceased. We'd planned to be there in time to see if we'd be welcome at the Sunday service. Welcome?? We were to discover once again that there is no welcome like an Irish one. From the moment we explained our purpose, we were offered advice about people and places, given a name of a likely living relative, and taken into the vestry, there to see for ourselves the written baptism record of my great grandmother, Elizabeth Spence and her brother Isaiah, whose name also appeared on a memorial plaque remembering those from the parish who had been killed in the first world war. The church records were housed in a safe; hadn't been handed over to a higher authority as they should have been and so were there for us to view in the place of their origin. How wise were the folks of long ago to hold onto their history and have it intact to share with us now?

   We had been right in our discoveries thus far. We’d found the home of my ancestors; found their church and school; found people descended from those who knew them. Our quest was proving to be much more than we'd hoped for, and we were still only half way through our visit.

   Colours are still important in Ireland; they appear in over-hanging flags, kerb-stones and posts of all kinds. They indicate views and beliefs and are reminders of past conflicts. Many believe the troubles are over. We hope and pray that this belief is shared by more and more as every day passes.

   One note on colour for us.........mum has a pair of shoes that she claims were navy blue before going into church today......they are now quite definitely dark green!!!!

     The church at Mullaghbrack

 

 

An Irish Escapade......Day Four  

 

Up with the lark and on our way by 8, we were in the courthouse at Markethill just before 9. Joan dropped us and left to meet her friend Anne in Ballymena.

   A couple of hours later, and with much greater local knowledge, we caught a bus back to Armagh to continue our quest. Help was once again offered by museum staff, and further pieces of an ever-increasing-in-size jigsaw found their way to us. We'd confirmed that our Spence ancestors had been resident in the area from the mid 16 hundreds. A short walk took us to the Irish study library and an unexpected opportunity to view the 1901 census records. As ever, and from past experience, they only threw up more questions! But we did manage to obtain a photocopy of the census showing Rachel Spence, aged one, living with her grandparents.

   We met up with Joan and proceeded to recharge our batteries with a well-earned drink. Then we were off again to search out another graveyard. It drew a blank, but mum's call to a 90+ Spence connection was entirely positive.

   There appeared to be no direct connection.......yet… after a 30 minute conversation during which mum told the lady about the lady's own family tree, a connection had been made that will prove fruitful, as the two agreed to correspond.

   So much activity deserved a hearty meal. We found an indian restaurant, where we were served by a waiter who'd only recently moved to Ireland from Oban.....small world. The meal was one of the best we'd tasted.

Highlight of the day was undoubtedly mum's conversation with a distant relative, and the fact that mum's shoes are still green and not blue. She expects them to return to their original colour when she sets foot on Scottish soil again!!

   What warmth we've received throughout our visit.......

We'll be back in the spring to follow up the leads we've found, and discover more about this land that is putting its troubles behind it.

 

   Beautiful Ireland 

 

Day Five......Leaving Ireland  

 

It's 3.30p.m.on our final day in Ireland. We are waiting to board our ferry home to Stranraer. Our last project was to visit the PRONI records office in Belfast. This we did, and left after three or so hours with a measure of success, and would you believe more questions than answers?!? Once again we managed to place my great-gran in school in Mullabrack. We also found at least another sister, and realised that the family and others like them, moved around a lot. Some youngsters hadn't had any formal education by the age of 14. The records office itself takes a bit of getting used to, but helpful leaflets will ease our next visit.

   We will be back, for there is much still to uncover. We leave with a feeling of success. We have made contact, found our way round the area, and met folks who will be able to aid our research. Most of all, we've found the warmest of welcomes at every step of our short journey. Ireland welcomed us and we've fallen in love with its charm.

 

And mum's shoes are STILL green!!!!!!!!